If things are a bit tight this Christmas, why not drag out the sewing machine and make your own Christmas gifts. It doesn’t have to be a complex piece of clothing. The suggestions below are all simple and easy to make. The biggest cost will be the fabric, so shop around for remnants and discount fabrics.

Elegant Table Runner & Placemats

When you think about it, the simple table runner is just a long rectangle, and placemats are just smaller ones. If you buy some nice organza or patterned satin material in festive colours, you can whip up a unique and beautiful gift in a matter of minutes.

A good size for a table runner is 60″ long by 13″ wide (or 160cm by 34cm). A good size for a placemat is 17½” by 12½” (or 45cm by 32cm). So for 6 placemats and 1 table runner, you’ll need around 2 yards of fabric (2 metres).

For each item you will need two pieces of fabric, so fold your fabric in half (right sides together) and draw up your pattern pieces using tailors chalk and a ruler (don’t forget to include a seam allowance).

Cut out, then sew together leaving a small gap in each piece (to turn the right way around). Turn right side out and iron (ironing the unfinished seam in place). Now run a seam around the entire outer side as close to the edge as possible. Voila!

Ladies Evening Wrap (or Day Wrap

Summer evenings are great, but sometimes they can be a little cool. Why not make this easy evening wrap – a quick and easy gift idea for Christmas too! Or, if you have a friend with Lupus, why not make them a daytime wrap so they can be shielded from the sun.

Great fabrics for this include silk or shot silk for an evening wrap, and tight weave cheesecloth which blocks the sun but still allows for air circulation for a day wrap.

The wrap is 31½“ wide by 63“ long (or 80cm by 160cm). However, our preference would be to have both long edges of the wrap as a selvedge edge, so if you find suitable fabric in a roll with a width just slightly larger than these (say 36″ instead of 31½ “), go ahead and buy it – a little extra width won’t hurt.

Before you buy your fabric, you need to decide what embellishment, if any, you want to put on the ends of the wrap. You can leave the edges as just a straight edge, you can attach some fringing or other decorative ribbon, or you can make your own fringe (if you are using a fabric than fringes easily). If you are buying decorative ribbon or fringing, you will need 63″ or 160cm.

If you decide to make your own fringe, don’t forget to factor that into how much fabric you will need. An average fringe is 2½“ long (or 7cm), so you will need to buy 31½ “ wide by 68 “ long (or 80cm by 174cm).

Then just stitch those edges that need to be stitched. For the sides (if you have to stitch them) I’d use a really tight zigzag stitch (test first on a scrap piece of fabric). For the ends, if you are just hemming, use the same stitch. If you will be attaching ribbon or fringing, sew a normal hem.

If you are fringing the wrap yourself, start unpicking the material at one end, and continue until the fringe measures 2½“ long (or 7cm). Now grab bunches of the fringing about 1/4″ wide (1/2cm), and tie in a knot so that the knot is as close the edge of the solid fabric as possible. Repeat every 1/4″ until you have knotted the entire edge. Now repeat with the other end of the wrap.

So, start sewing – hopefully these ideas will inspire you!

Are you having a battle keeping your plastic grocery bags organized and in one place?  Making a dish towel bag caddy is a great way to keep your recyclable plastic bags organized and handy.  These simple instructions are easy to follow and you will be able to make one for every room in your home and garage in just minutes.

Your bag caddy can easily be stored in your kitchen by hanging it from a magnetic hook on the side of your refrigerator.  Or, if you prefer to keep it out of sight, place it inside of a kitchen cabinet or under the sink.  Another great use would be to hang it in your bedroom closets, linen closets or bathroom cabinets. By placing a terry cloth bag caddy in these areas, it will keep your recyclable bags nice and handy for emptying the waste baskets (especially if you have a two story home), and will save you time!  Also, hanging one in your garage or laundry room will also come in use.  If you have a pet, it makes it easy to grab a recyclable plastic bag from your bag caddy to take with you when walking your pet.

For this project you will need the following supplies:

1 Decorative terry cloth dish towel:  We chose one with a fringe edge on it. 1 Roll of thread:  White or  any coordinating color to match your dish towel. Sewing needle Satin ribbon:  8in. length Straight pins

Step 1:  Fold the terry cloth dish towel in half with the right sides together and the wrong sides facing out.

Step 2:  Secure the ends in place with straight pins all along the open side of the dish towel.

Step 3:  Using your needle and thread (or sewing machine), sew a ¼ inch seam down the pinned side and be sure to remove your straight pins and cut off any loose threads.

Step 4:  Next, fold your ribbon in half creating an 8 inch length.  Stitch your ribbon to the top right side of the dish towel to form a loop (see below for photos).

Step 5:  Turn the bag right side out and insert your recyclable plastic bags in to the bag caddie by filling it from either end until it is full.

There you have it.  An organized bag caddy for your recyclable plastic bags that is a useful and practical sewing craft project, and is also a wonderful green craft project if you decide to recycle and use an older towel rather than throw it out to the trash or garage.

For more great sewing crafts and green craft ideas, check out some of our other articles for more tips on easy to do projects.

Think it can’t be done? Think again – an apron is a very simple thing to sew, and you can easily make your own pattern. Once you have your pattern, you can cut out and sew one up in 15 minutes or less!

To Make Your Pattern

We need to take 3 measurements:

Length – measure from mid way between your chest and the bottom of your neck to about 6″ above your knee, plus 1″ (for the hem).

Waist – measure from this same spot to your waist plus 5/8th” (for the top hem).

Width – measure your hips at their widest point (complete circumference, not side to side). Now, take off 14″ (the apron doesn’t need to close at the back, just go around your hips), and then divide by 2.

Now, take some pattern paper and fold it in half lengthways. Put a mark on the paper, on the fold, where your length measurement is. So, for example, if I am 28″ from upper chest to above the knee, I would make a mark on the fold 28″ from the top of the paper.

Now, mark off where your b>waist measurement is on the same fold. For me, this is 12″ down, so I make a mark on the fold 12″ from the top of the paper.

Now take a ruler, and at your waist mark point, mark a line out as far as your width measurement (now you can see why we divided by 2, as we have the pattern paper folded over!).

Now just mark a straight line from your width marking down to where your length marking is, then across to the fold (to see a diagram of this, just click here).

For the top of the apron, draw a line on the diagonal from your width marking to the top of the pattern paper. The width of the top of the apron is a personal choice. I have mine around 8″, but the fuller your figure, the more generous you should be. Just don’t forget to add on hem allowance for each side, and then divide by 2. So for my apron, my diagonal line hits the top of the pattern paper 4½” from the fold (8″ wide, plus 2 hem allowances of 5/8th” divided by 2).

Materials & Notions

For the waistband and neck, I use cotton webbing, about ¾” wide, and in similar colour to the fabric I am using. This is so much easier and quicker than making your own! For the waist ties, you will need 40″ (cut in two pieces). For the neck, you need 1 piece only (which we will sew into the top hem). Take your tape measure and measure from one side of your chest, round the back of your neck, to the other side of your chest (where the top of the apron will be). For me, this is 20″, so I would buy 22″ (extra for hem allowance).

The fabric for your apron should medium weight, and can be any colour or pattern you choose – check out the remnants table for a real bargain! For me, a yard of fabric will do in almost any width, but if you are not sure, take your pattern or measurements with you to the fabric store – the assistants there will help you get the right amount of fabric.

Making Your Apron

OK, doing all the above will take you more than 15 minutes, but you only have to do all those measurements and making of the pattern once. Now, let’s make our apron!

Lay out your fabric, pin on the pattern, and cut out.

Cut your cotton webbing into the three pieces – one neck piece, and two waist ties.

Sew a hem on one end of each of the two waist ties.

Now, pin up your hem allowance all around the apron. Once that is complete, we need to go back and insert the waist ties and neck piece (to see a diagram of this, just click here).

The waist ties should be inserted into your folded over hem allowance at the point where your waist line starts to go up on the diagonal. With the apron right side down (hem facing you), slip the webbing into the hem allowance, and then fold back over the hem allowance – we want to stitch over the top of the webbing and hem. Make sure you put the webbing in the right way so that your hem at the other end will be facing inwards once the apron hem is sewn!

Now do the same with each end of the neck webbing. The neck ends are attached at the top outer edges of the apron.

Sew. Iron. Done!!

If you’re going to do any sewing, you need some scissors. In fact, even if you aren’t doing any sewing, every household needs some scissors! They’re a useful tool, so it’s important to have at least one pair.

Scissors vs. Shears

First off, though people often use the name interchangeably, scissors and shears aren’t really the same thing and are meant to perform different tasks. Shears are used for the heavier cutting jobs, whereas scissors are best used for lighter cutting jobs such as trimming or clipping threads.

Shear Strength

A pair of shears generally measures about 6 inches or more in length. To hold the shears, there is a small ring handle for the thumb, and a larger one for inserting two or three fingers. Holding the shears by placing your fingers through these rings gives better leverage to perform the heavier tasks for which shears excel

Scissors Are Smaller

Scissors range in length from 6 inches on down to 3 inches or even less. Besides being smaller than shears, the handle rings are of equal size

Choosing Quality Scissors and Shears
Most scissors are made of steel. There are two main types of steel used for scissors. The first type, carbon steel, is used to make scissors with the blade and the handle formed in one continuous piece. This type of steel is very strong and stays sharp. Scissors made from carbon steel are usually plated with nickel or chromium to prevent them from rusting.
The other type of steel scissors are those made from stainless steel. A plastic handle is usually fitted to the metal blade. These scissors aren’t as sturdy and don’t retain a sharp edge as long. They’re also harder to re-sharpen. However, they are generally much cheaper.

Types of Scissors

There are many types of scissors available. Here’s a small sampling:

* Applique Scissors: Offset for level cutting
* Bent Handle Dressmaker Shears: Allow the cutting blades to rest flat on the table
* Easy Grip Scissors: With larger handles for those having difficulty holding scissors
* Embroidery Scissors: Used for cutting embroider threads
* Finishing Shears: Either as pinking or scalloping shears, used to cut ravel-resistant seams
* Heavy-duty Shears: For cutting leather, upholstery, drapery, etc.
* Thread Snipping Scissors: For cutting loose threads off sewing

There are also shears made for left-handed people, household scissors (all-purpose, poultry shears, etc.), paper scissors for children, scrapbooking scissors, electric scissors and more.

For just about any task, there’s some kind of scissors or shears that will do the job.

Caring for Scissors and Shears

The first and foremost rule of scissors: Scissors should ONLY be used to cut the materials for which they were designed.

Do not, I repeat, do NOT use shears meant for cutting material for household tasks like cutting paper. Using scissors for something other than the materials they were intended to cut will dull the blades.

Scissors and shears should be kept dry and dust free, with an occasional oiling at the screw. Keeping them in a safe place like a sewing box, or with higher quality cutting instruments, the box they came in, will help protect the points. Also, scissors should be stored in a closed position. Setting down scissors in an open position is the most common cause of dull blades.

High quality scissors and shears can be re-conditioned by the manufacturers or other companies providing that service.

Summing Up Scissors and Shears

For scissors to be used round the house, cheaper scissors work fine. If they become dull or broken, it’s cheap to replace them. For cutting fabric and other sewing tasks, a good set of shears is a wise investment.

Take care of your scissors and shears, and they’ll reward you with easy cutting for years to come.

It’s very easy to make your own reusable shopping bag or tote. All you need is some sturdy fabric (such as heavy duty calico) and some cotton webbing or braid for the handles.

Suitable Fabrics & Notions

As noted above, you should choose a sturdy fabric such as heavy duty cotton or calico. To make one bag you’ll need half a yard of fabric (assuming the fabric width is 43″ or more). For metric sewers, you’ll need ½ metre of fabric if the fabric is at least 106cm wide.

It may also be worthwhile to invest in some quality thread, as you may be carrying some heavy items in your bag, and you cannot afford to have your bag break due to cheap quality thread!

For the handles, I recommend cotton webbing or braid about 1″ wide (2.5 cm). You’ll need 48″ of the webbing (or 122 cm).

To Make Your Pattern

There are only 5 pieces to cut out. 2 rectangles form the bag’s front and back, there is one long piece that joins the front and back (to give the bag depth), and then 2 pieces for your handles.

Lay your fabric face down, and then draw out your rectangles as follows:

Bag sides (you’ll need 2 of these) 13½” wide by 14½” tall (this gives a ½” seam allowance). In metric, this is 2 rectangles 34cm by 36cm (with a 1cm seam allowance).  

Then you’ll need long rectangle measuring 42½” by 5½” (or 106cm by 12cm).

Lay them out as shown in this diagram www.sewing4dummies.com/images/bag-layout.gif and then cut out.

Take your webbing and cut 2 handles each 24″ long (or 61cm).                                                          

To Make Up

Basically, the long piece of fabric needs to be sewn along three sides of each rectangle (as shown in this diagram www.sewing4dummies.com/images/bag-sew.gif). Place one rectangle along the side of the long piece (right sides together) and start sewing. Stitch slowly when turning the corners of the rectangle. I strongly recommend that you sew each seam twice for extra strength, especially at the corners.

Now attach your handles to the bag and sew on by sewing a rectangle, then sew a cross in the middle (see this diagram  www.sewing4dummies.com/images/bag-handles.gif). Again, it would be wise to double stitch these seams.

It doesn’t matter whether you attach the handles to the inside or the outside, it’s up to you. And that’s it. Very simple.

Want a new blanket, but cannot afford to buy one? Here’s 3 ways to get an inexpensive fleece blanket, ranging from “no sew” to “minimal sew” options.

Materials

The first thing you’ll need is your material. I recommend polar fleece, brushed wool, or any other fabric of a suitable weight and thickness for your requirements.

Measurements

Unless you have a speciality fabric store nearby, chances are your width will be determined by the maximum width you can buy. Measure the bed you wish to cover, and add an allowance at the sides and bottom for the blanket to drape over the edge.

As an example, a standard double bed mattress is approximately 74″ by 57″ (or 1880 cm by 1400cm). I would generally allow around 4″ allowance (or 10 cm) on 3 of the 4 sides. That means my fabric would need to be 77″ by 63″ (or 1890 cm by 1420 cm).

The No Sew Method

The simplest blanket to make without sewing is a fringed blanket.

Two of your 4 sides will have “selvedge” edges – this means that they have been treated so that they will not fray or curl. Leave these edges alone.

With your other two edges, take some masking tape, and place it along the edge of your fabric approximately 2″ (or 5 cm) from the edge. Now cut your fringe along the entire length of each edge up to the masking tape. Be sure to use sharp scissors, and not cut beyond the start of your masking tape.

The Manual Sewing Method

 The manual sewing method involves doing a wide blanket stitch around the entire outside of your fabric. Use fine wool in a contrasting or darker shade to add extra oomph!

The Little Bit of Sewing Method

My favourite method for creating blankets is to use some wide ribbon or satin fabric in a matching colour to edge my blankets (like a woollen blanket). This is very simple to do, but is a little more expensive as you will require a long piece of ribbon or matching fabric about 3½” to 4″ wide (or 9 – 10 cm).

Simply cut the fabric or ribbon to length (one piece for each side) and stitch to the blanket about 1½” from the edge. Now turn over the blanket, and fold the ribbon over and pin in place. Make sure when pinning that you get the new seam as close as possible to the other seam. Now stitch in place and you’re done!

During the “glory” days of Singer Sewing Machines, Singer produced the model 201 from the 1930’s to at least the 1950’s. It was their finest (and highest priced) machine. Thousands of these machines were produced — and most of them are still sewing as finely and strongly today as they did when first produced.

Research the Singer 201 and you’ll find more than one reference stating that the 201 is the finest sewing machine Singer ever made. While I can’t authoritatively say the same (I haven’t tried all the machines Singer ever made!), I haven’t found anything about the 201 that would make me disagree with that statement.

I really appreciate fine mechanical and electronic devices. I like old Hammond clocks and organs, tube amplifiers and vintage guitars, vintage sports cars, gizmos and gadgets like that. About 10 years ago (in a fit of mid-life crisis) I bought a used Porsche 944. When I sit down at the Singer 201 and press the foot pedal, I get a very similar feeling to that experienced when cruising down the highway in the Porsche at a way-too-fast speed — the smooth and comfortable feeling of machinery performing perfectly.

I compare it to a Porsche — and I’ve seen others compare it to driving a Ferrari!

Singer produced at least four different versions of the 201:

201-1 – Treadle version
201-2 – Potted motor and gear-driven
201-3 – External motor and belt-driven
201-4 – Hand-crank (original factory, not later conversion)

The 201 is a sturdy and heavy machine — not a portable at all! This is not a slim and sexy sports car — it’s a full-sized, classy and luxurious grand touring sedan! It’s built to last — but does need maintenance to perform its best. You’ll need to oil it regularly and also grease the gears from time to time. You can unscrew the circular silver plate on the backside of the machine to reveal the gears and the greasing points. Use regular Singer Sewing Machine gear grease (not oil!). Use sewing machine oil only at the recommended oiling points. This rotary hook machine uses a Class 66 bobbin (means very little vibration, great stitch quality, and easily found bobbins.)

The machine is easy to thread and easy to use. The fact that some of these machines are going on 80 years old and still outsewing modern machines is a telling point — they’ll probably last at least another 80 years! Maintain them well and they’ll keep sewing — well, longer than you or I probably will!

One reason the machine is so easy to use is that it is a straight stitch only machine. A single stitch … but a beautiful and perfect straight stitch! You won’t find yourself “fighting” the 201 like you might battle with low end plastic machines — less time fighting means less time fixing and redoing problems and less frustration!

Even though the machine is straight stitch only, Singer and other vendors made a host of attachments that offer a world of possibilities — free-form embroidery, buttonholes, zig-zag, blindhemming — pretty much anything you want from a quality sewing machine is easily achievable.

Best of all, prices tend to be really low (supply and demand — Singer made zillions of these machines!). You’ll often pay way less than you would for a plastic import that may die a deserved death after a few weeks or months of sporadic sewing — and you’ll gain a lifelong sewing servant.

How should you view the Singer 201? Well, think back on the Porsche/Ferrari analogy — except lower the price to less than $100! This machine purrs like the well-crafted piece of machinery it is. It feels “quality:, if you know what I mean. This machine will definitely be in your “keeper” list.

Curious — check out the Singer 201 in action!

When you think about sewing machines what do you think of in terms of the capabilities? Do you think in terms of its varied functions? Or how it can make things easier for you?

Well, when I think about sewing machines I think of some of the things I am going to be able to accomplish with it. I may choose to think about the different items that I am going to be able to fix when I have a sewing machine around or it could be the many different items I am going to be able to make with the use of a sewing machine.

How many of us really thought about how the sewing machine came about? Not likely. More than likely there was not many of us that really think about where the sewing machine came from. They are just probable aware that they seen their mother or grandmother using one all the time either fixing items that had a small tore or making some complete outfits for their children. Now days the sewing machine is not used as much for making complete outfits for you children or for yourself.

They are used more for convince such as fixing little tears that you may have noticed on your cloths or for making different quilts and blankets. When you think about making an entire outfit for your children you start to think that there is no way that they are going to wear anything that you have made for them. With some of the children anymore that is going to be true.

Even if you are not thinking of making an outfit for your children you may think of making different items for around the house. You are able to make simple things like curtains or blankets. If you are feeling a little brave you could even do little more complicated things like some quilts for your home. Yet there are quilt designs out there that are going to give you some ease with the pattern having everything ready for you to sew together.

No matter what your skill on a sewing machine is you will be able to a little sewing hear and there. As you are practicing with the little stitches you are doing on cloths you will soon be able to accomplish more difficult tasks to try.

Now, get on to get one sewing machine today!

Just before you sit down to begin all those back to school and holiday <a rel=”nofollow” onclick=”javascript:pageTracker._trackPageview(’/outgoing/article_exit_link’);” href=” http://www.globalsewingmachine.com“>sewing machine</a> projects, it is a good time to take a moment to do some rountine maintenance on your sewing machine. If your like me, I normally don’t think to do anything with the machine other that sew with it until it decides not to work properly.<p>The easiest thing to do to keep your  running smoothly is do some cleaning. The bobbin area and the area around the feed dogs usually get clogged up with lint and need to be cleaned at least once every 3 months.</p><p>The sewing guide</a> sheet that come in every pattern also gives accurate and detailed instructions for assembling, sewing, and finishing details for your specific garment and view. Following this set-by-step guide even if you think you’re a pro will eliminate needless errors in construction.</p><p>It is even a good idea to again highlight the particular view you are making and noting where its specific sewing instructions start. By checking off each step as it is completed makes it easier to put down a project and start back up on it at a later time. Interuptions do happen. </p>

Many modern sewing machines contain microprocessors, which enable the selection of a wide range of different stitching patterns. Computer-controlled machines are now also available, with programmes which allow the user to create their own embroidery patterns on screen. The machine will automatically reproduce these designs. Another type of machine in wide use, particularly in industry, is the overlocker. This was first developed in the late 19th century and is able to cut, sew, and neaten seams in one operation.

For many people, the art of sewing is a long gone skill that is no longer necessary. As we head to the many retail stores that offer the clothes and other materials that we need, we find that there is no longer a need to sit down with our needle and thread – or at our sewing machine – and create a piece that we can easily purchase in a fraction of the time. But for others, sewing is a skill and hobby they will never relinquish as it allows them to save money and infuse their own personal style and creativity into every piece they make. And for these people, having the proper sewing accessory at hand at all times is necessary for success and enjoyment.

There are a great many fabric stores today that offer all that you need to complete your latest sewing project – miles and miles of fabric and every tool imaginable. Of course, the added benefit of these stores is the helpful and knowledgeable employees who will assist you in finding everything you need. In order to begin and successfully complete your project however, you must know what sewing accessory is integral in the process.

For those who sew by hand, the sewing accessory that is needed is very different than if they were to sew by machine. In addition to material, hand sewn items require a needle and a variety of thread colors that match your fabric. Additionally, fabric scissors, a ruler, and a thimble are all worthwhile tools. For those who sew by machine, the needle is still a necessary sewing accessory. Of course thread, scissors, and a ruler are also needed.

In either case, for most people, a pattern is, by far, the most important sewing accessory needed to get the job done right. A pattern will act as a template to help you design and complete the project. A well-chosen sewing accessory will put you well on your way to a beautiful outcome.